Surfing the Faith
Surfing the Faith Collin Leong. Mar 9, 2016 Stormy skies on Day 1 The rain was coming in from the horizon like a thick dark grey curtain towards our motorised "jukung," a Balinese outrigger canoe. The sea itself was calm and the 5 of us (2 guides and 3 surfing beginners - me, my son, and Susan - a lady of about 60+ from Boston.) We had just spent 40 minute on the beach for the surfing theories and instructions. It sounded easy enough, and I was eager to prove to my 17 year old son his old man can still learn something new faster than he! As the rain poured heavier, the guide decided to take the jukung back to shore to wait it out. It was about 9am. The rain passed over quickly and we made it to the surf spot about 800 meters from shore by 9:30, though it was still drizzling. We secured the boards to our feet with its leash and paddled a little way out to catch the waves. Securing the board leash to our foot The first wave pounded both of us and threw us off the board as we ...