Surfing the Faith

Surfing the Faith

Collin Leong. Mar 9, 2016

Stormy skies on Day 1

The rain was coming in from the horizon like a thick dark grey curtain towards our motorised "jukung," a Balinese outrigger canoe. The sea itself was calm and the 5 of us (2 guides and 3 surfing beginners - me, my son, and Susan - a lady of about 60+ from Boston.) We had just spent 40 minute on the beach for the surfing theories and instructions. It sounded easy enough, and I was eager to prove to my 17 year old son his old man can still learn something new faster than he!

As the rain poured heavier, the guide decided to take the jukung back to shore to wait it out. It was about 9am. The rain passed over quickly and we made it to the surf spot about 800 meters from shore by 9:30, though it was still drizzling. We secured the boards to our feet with its leash and paddled a little way out to catch the waves.

Securing the board leash to our foot

The first wave pounded both of us and threw us off the board as we attempted to get up. But on the second wave, both my son and I managed to stand up, and we cruised the wave side by side for about 150 metres! It was pure adrenalin! I can't describe the feeling to you except to say it's the closest to being able to walk on water!

We had signed up for a 3-day lesson package in Sanur, Bali. On the second and third day, we learned to turn the board right and left, respectively. Putting the board at 45 degree angle increases the ability for the board to catch the power of the wave by 150%, we were told.

Now, with tired arms from paddling, a cramped thigh muscle, and a lighter pocket from the hefty training fees, I think I'm qualified to explain a few key principles on beginner's surfing techniques - if you don't mind! I also realised that a few of these techniques are good analogies for living our Christian faith. They may be basic, but it's a good way to remember how to stand up right and keep on going.

1. Set up

Paddling Position

This refers to the direction of your board when preparing to catch the wave. At first you are lying flat on your chest on top of the board, pointing out towards the sea. You look for the coming waves. They don't come every minute, but more like every 5 to 10 minutes. Some waves are just too small to surf and you let it pass you by. But when a large enough wave is oncoming, you turn your board 180 degree to face the beach and start paddling hard to get momentum. If you don't, or are sideways when the wave hits, your board will flip over.

In our Christian walk, this is analogous to being aware of the Spirit's prompting. It's being sensitive to feeling it and knowing when to get into position. "If we live by the Spirit, let us also walk by the Spirit." (Gal. 5:25). Once you get into position, you move with the Spirit and trust that it will carry you forward to a destination or situation that you might not fully know. How do we do this? By what Jesus told us: "watch and pray" (Matt. 26:41).

Often we are not watching and are not poised for action. For example, when the Spirit prompts us to share the gospel with an random stranger, do we hesitate to get into position and result in the opportunity passing by? But no worries, the waves never stop coming. You can always catch the next one.

2. Pop Up.

The "pop-up" practice

So now you are paddling towards the beach with the wave on the back. When you sense the wave has caught up with the board and the board has picked up speed, you are told to push up your body with your hands and quickly plant both feet on the board simultaneously. This is called the pop-up.

Instinctively, all beginners will tend to get up on their knees first to balance themselves before getting up with one feet at a time, just like the regular way you would get up from the floor. That's what my son and I did the first time we surfed on our own back in 2014 at Legian, Bali. We didn't go for lessons then, thinking, how hard can this be, right? After all it looks just like skateboarding except on water! Boy, we got humbled. We never went higher than our knees. Each time we tried to stand up, we lose balance and crashed into the foaming waves.

This time round, I trusted the instructor and, by faith, "poped up" and planted both feet simultaneously and firmly on the board, without thinking too much about it. It only took us only two attempts before we managed to get our balance and cruise down the wave for a distance!

In our faith walk, the analogy is simple. Be bold. "For God has not given us a spirit of timidity, but of power and love and discipline." (2 Tim 1:7). When the Spirit leads, take that step of faith boldly and firmly. You'd be surprised that all the worst case disastrous scenario will not happen as you imagine. At worst, you've planted a seed or laid one brick in contribution to what the Spirit desires. At best, your bold action may change someone's life or transform the future.

3. Keep body low

(Taken in Australia, 2012)

Now, having encourage you to take that bold step to "pop up" onto your feet rather than one knee at a time, one must quickly remember one important thing. Don't stand up too tall and too quickly. You don't want to put your CG (centre of gravity) too high up as it would be harder to balance. In surfing (as in skiing or skateboarding), you'll be reminded to bend your knees and keep the body low. I had a tendency to stand up too straight too quickly, and inevitably find myself flailing my arms as I fall backwards.

So while we must take the bold step in acting out our faith, we must always keep a humble posture. "Pride goes before destruction, and a haughty spirit before stumbling." (Proverbs 16:18). When we realise the power of darkness we are standing against, it will do well for us to put our confidence in God and not on ourselves, and spend time on our knees in prayer. Only then can we stand on the stormy seas.

4. Eyes decide balance and direction

Beginners have the tendency to look down at the surf board or at the waters when we are struggling to keep our balance. That's a sure way to lose balance. Our coach told us that where our eyes look, that's where our body will head. If you look down, you will lose balance and fall. Instead, our eyes are to look straight ahead toward the beach, even as we are" popping up" from the board. The body will automatically poise correctly when the head and eyes are facing straight. We are not to worry about the board, our feet or the waters below.

(Taken in Australia, 2012)

In fact, steering the board left or right is also by looking. If you want to turn right, turn your head and shoulders right and keep looking straight. By doing so, the lower body will automatically follow suit and start twisting to the right, transmitting the shearing forces to the board, resulting it to turn accordingly.

In our Christian walk, where our eyes focus on are vital. Or more accurately, WHO our eyes focus on. Peter was doing fine when he started walking toward Jesus on the water. But then his eyes looked down at the waves, he started to sink. He took his eyes off the Lord.

In living the Christian life, all kinds of challenges, distractions, difficulties and temptation will come like giant waves toward us. If we start to focus on them, they will overwhelm, confuse and discourage us. An analytical or controlling personality will especially have this problem, as we have an instinctive need to figure out "why is this happening" and "how can I stop this". Though there's nothing wrong for being inwardly prospecting and outwardly aware, but in the end the way to move out of the storm is to look forward onto the face of Jesus, trusting that He will keep your feet firmly on the right path as you do so. "...let us run with endurance the race that is set before us, fixing our eyes on Jesus, the author and perfecter of faith..." (Hebrews 12:1b-2a)

In summary, the four points to remember are:

1. Set Up: be sensitive to the Spirit leading, be in the right position when it comes. (Watch & Pray)

2. Pop Up: when it's time to act, take a bold step, don't hesitate. (Obey)

3. Body Low: Be humble and rely on God's strength at all times. (Humility)

4. Eyes Front: Focus on Jesus, not on your techniques or circumstances. (Trust)

Susan on the left

Maybe some of you are wondering how Susan - the 60+ year old lady - handled the rough and tumble of surfing. Well, good news for all you approaching 60, Susan did marvelously. She didn't even fall as much as we did, as she wasn't as reckless as we were!

When I saw how she kept her balance on the board, I told our coach I bet she used to be an athlete. Later on the way back to the beach in our jukung, I asked her what sport she did in the past. She said, long ago, she was a gymnast! You never know what unrelated experiences or skills you picked up in the past that God can use now for His purpose!

May my little parable of the beginner surfer help you in surfing your faith!

A few more surfing photos :)